Gothic Horror: Victorian Make Up Ideals

In this unit we will be studying gothic horror as well as Victorian make up. My current understanding of Victorian make up is small but since starting this unit I have begun to research, using books and the Internet. In the early Victorian era women were more discreet with the make up they wore compared with other time periods and, Richard Corson in 'Fashions in Make Up' said, 'most women who rouged did not advertise the fact. Rouge was occasionally seen on older gentlemen who cling to the habits of earlier years'. From what I have learned it was more about maintaining natural beauty, as written on the website 'Vintage Make –Up Guide'. However, although they are discreet make up was still applied. Women, as well as men, penciled in their eyebrows using a camel brush. White products were used to improve the complexion, blues were used to define veins and reds to add colour to the cheeks and lips. However most of the products used were harmful to the skin as they contained lead and acids. In the book 'Fashions in Make Up' it refers to the writing of Mrs Alex Walker where she lists the effects that it can have on the body such as, ‘paralysis and contraction’, ‘the complexion becomes dull and tarnished, and the skin appears faded and ghastly.’ Painted lips were highly frowned upon especially by Madame Montez who wrote, ‘there is no man who does not shrink back in disgust from the idea of kissing a pair of painted lips.’ In the mid Victorian era women were still discreet, however the application of cosmetics was becoming more common but there was some resistance against the use of some cosmetics, which lasted into the next century. Perfume was very popular during this time period. Later on in the Victorian era there were people who were in favour of cosmetics, such as Harriet Hubbard Ayer, who though cosmetics should be used whenever and wherever they were needed. More women started to ‘paint’ however they were advised not to. It has also become apparent that cleanliness was of upmost importance at this time. In the book 'The Artificial Face' by Fenja Gunn it says, ‘cleanliness virtue second only to godliness.’ So far I am finding cosmetics in the Victorian era very interesting to research and am looking forward to learning more throughout this unit.

This portrait below is of Queen Victoria, it is clear in this image that she is wearing no or very natural make up. This is important because it was normally the monarchies that set the trends for make up, hair and fashion. This look on a Queen would have therefore made its way into society.

A portrait Of Queen Victoria
http://paintingandframe.com/prints/english_school_portrait_of_the_young_queen_victoria-18478.html

Examples of Victorian portraits where women are wearing very little make up.

A Victorian Portrait
https://serendipityproject.wordpress.com/2011/10/29/oct-29-2011-twenty-four-victorian-studio-portraits-of-women-in-a-variety-of-settings-second-part-english-c-1880-–-1900/victorian-portrait-woman-with-brooch-gloucester/